How To Avoid Malaria While Making Tomato Sauce: A Primer

I will now attempt the lowest form of internet content. No, not pictures of cats.

Hey, leave me out of it. I’m not currently doing anything bad, mostly because I’m asleep.

There is a circle of intertunnel hell below the feline meme zone: recipes. Only taking pictures of restaurant food while on vacation ranks lower. But by golly, I’m wading into this pool. I’m going to teach you how to make roasted garlic tomato sauce. Why? Because I had to learn how to do it, and misery loves company.

I’m in Merida, Yucatan, Mexico. They’ve heard of Italians. Rumors, mostly. The local idea of Italian food drifts into the orange sauce category. We’ve always lived in the blood red culinary world. Other than jarred Prego, they don’t cater to anyone who wishes to cook Italian food at home. Their ground tomatoes come in a little box, about the size of your child’s juice box. If you make tomato sauce using it as an ingredient, it comes out with the flavor, texture, and color of off-brand bark mulch after a heavy rain.

It’s also nearly impossible to find things like ricotta cheese, pecorino romano cheese, or blocks of mozzarella cheese. They have their own cheese here, called manchego, and they like it better than they like me, I guess, so we have to make do. But we got weary of bad tomato sauce, and pledged to do better.

It’s interesting to note that Mexicans basically invented the tomato. They grew wild in the Andes (tomatoes, not Mexicans), but it was Mexicans who first cultivated them as a crop in a serious way. When the various conquistador types showed up looking for free-range doubloons, they discovered tomatl, and brought them back to Europe. I assume an Italian eventually stole some from Spain, because I’m Italian, and that’s how we roll, and the rest is history, and pizza.

So Roma tomatoes are grown everywhere here, called jitomate Roma, and they’re terrific. They’re not particularly Mexican, though, or Italian, or European of any stripe. They are grown here, but they’re the result of modern plant breeding in the USA. At any rate, with inexpensive, easy to find tomatoes available all over our city, I should be able to make tomato sauce. Then again, I should be able to understand differential equations, since I was taught them in school. I can’t recall what the drive train in a car has to do with math with letters in it, so don’t count on cheating off me in class. But I can make a fairly credible tomato sauce equation.

So here goes: first, go to the Santiago marketplace and get some tomatoes. We’re feeding four people, so get 18 or 20 of them.

If you’re new to the cooking game, I suppose I should mention the tomatoes are on the right. The fruits on the left are called limes. These are important. I don’t want you to get malaria, so mix the gin you see in the background with quinine water and put a slice of lime in it. I swear by it. I drank it in Maine all the time, and never got malaria.

Now cut the tomatoes in half lengthwise, and nip out the belly button from the stem.

If you haven’t had your gin yet, put your delirium tremens to work for you and drizzle some olive oil on your metal baking tray in a wild pattern.

With all your tomatoes face down, like a keg party at 3 AM, get a bunch of garlic and a big cebolla (white onion), slice them up, and toss them willy nilly on the tomatoes. The willy nilly arrangement adds zest, I guess.

Salt, pepper, and pepperoncino (red pepper flakes) are the last of the ingredients, except maybe the most important one. I’ll explain that later.

We’re cooking in Merida, remember? We need an oven. Ovens are pretty scarce around here, at least in the rental house market we haunt. We have one, though. It’s about the size of a shoe box, and the dials are all marked in soccer. You need to get about 425 degrees Fahrenheit, which is something like 220 degrees C.

Put the tomatoes up high on the racks in the oven for 45 minutes. They’ll look like this:

You grab the burnt skins and pull them off, because you will have no skin in this game:

Then you build a Time Masheen and travel back in time to buy a vegetable mill on Amazon, and have it delivered to an Amazon Locker down the street because the chances of anything being delivered to your house are pretty slim.

Then you put everything from the tray into the mill, and crank. I am a crank, so I find this easy. Your mileage may vary. After a while, the good stuff is in the bowl, and you can throw away the mulch that’s left in the mill.

And here’s what you get for your trouble:

Yeah. Red, not orange. A hint of arrabbiata from the pepper flakes, roasted garlic flavor from the, you know, roasted garlic, and some sweetness from the onion. Bad jarred tomato sauces and Clemenza just dump in sugar to kill the acid, but you don’t need it if you cook this right.

Now, climb back in your Time Masheen, go back a month or two, buy a bunch of pots, fill them with semillas de albahaca grande, otherwise known as basil seeds, and wait. Because you can’t find fresh basil here to save your soul. You’ll just get the same, “You mean cilantro, senor?” from everyone. You. Need. Fresh. Basil.

Why, yes, I do get strange looks from the cleaning lady, because I don’t grow dope like a normal gringo, but by gad, we have fresh basil in our salsa tomate.

Tuesday Bookmark Funeral Pyre

Well, it’s Tuesday. Time to clean out the bookmarks I’ve been meaning to read. I’ll post them here, to avoid reading them properly. It’s the only way I can delete them without feeling foolish.

The most beautiful bridges in the world

Not hardly. Most of the included examples are ugly, with a fair amount of silly mixed in. What you’re looking at, is people deciding to call things beautiful, when they know in their bones that they’re not, to make some sort of pointless point. The tattoo parlor is also based on this principle.

Violet Hensley, Oldest Living Country Legend, Dies at 109

She made her Grand Old Opry debut when she was 99 years old, so remember: if you’ve been neglecting your fiddle lessons, there’s still time.

A controversial Alzheimer’s surgery is said to reverse symptoms — here’s what scientists know

I assume that it’s labeled “controversial” because it works. That’s where we’re at these days.

What we’re currently listening to at the Cabaña Sippican del Sur:

Yma Sumac, eat your heart out.

Home Depot Tops Earnings Estimates and Holds Its Outlook Steady, Amid ‘Frozen’ Housing Market

You mean you can go to a big box store and buy stuff to fix the busted stuff in your existing house, instead of buying a new one and then adding new stuff, and they can make money on it? That’s crazy talk.

Mayor Cecilia Patrón Strengthens Ties with South Korea in Mérida

There are over 7,000 Korean descendants living in Mérida. This explains the noodles and ice cream combo food stalls. I guess. What do I know?

IBM Simon Retro Advertisement and Tutorial:

Boy, except for the Sears catalog, no company had ground floor opportunities in massively profitable products, that did nothing to capitalize on them, like IBM. Some serious 90s vibes for you in that video.

Shattered skeleton in Scottish castle is first confirmed death from trebuchet

I was kinda hoping it was one of those Nork kinda executions and they launched the poor bastige using the trebuchet, but it was not to be. The effect was mostly the same, I imagine, without the fun ride for starters.

Well, that’s it for today. Feel free to put your favorite bridge in the comments. I suspect our list will differ greatly from Conde Nast. I’ll start:

Kitchen Sink Squeeze

Squeeze from 1979, from the Cool for Cats album.

Cool for cats, indeed. That’s only their second album, and they look it. They’re as fresh-faced as high-schoolers in that video. I’m always impressed when musicians are that young and that sophisticated about the songs they write. Mostly the lyrics. Lotsa musicians are capable of playing their instruments like demons and singing like angels before they’re old enough to drink. But writing lyrics, or much of anything literary, is not generally for the young, or the young of heart.

There’s a reason why most rock music is singsong doggerel. Tonight I’m Really Gonna Rock You Tonight shouted over three chords is about right when you’re brimming with hormones and luxuriant of hair. By the time the requisite amount of world-weariness is stored up to say anything really interesting, never mind profound, you’d feel silly still being a rock musician. If you were capable of feeling silly, I mean. Rock music’s HR department generally starts off every interview with, “Are you capable of feeling silly? No? Great, this is the profession for you.”

“Up the junction” is a UK expression. It means something like up the creek without a paddle. It’s interesting that the title of the song, which is generally beaten half to death in the choruses of the average ditty, doesn’t even appear until the last line of the lyrics. And there is no chorus. Notable, that. It just sort of climbs a little staircase of chords to increase the tension in the song as it bumps along.

I’m not put in mind of other musicians when I listen to this. It’s Tony Richardson. He directed well-known Kitchen Sink dramas like Look Back in Anger:

Difford and Tilbrook, Squeeze’s songwriting duo, are too winsome to “eat the scenery” like Richard Burton always does, or take a hard line like John Osborne, who wrote the play Look Back in Anger is based on. But there’s definitely a taste of Kitchen Sink honey in Up the Junction. The examination of working class people, hinting at the inevitability of everything good or bad in a Clapham life, followed by a general disaffection with the life that’s doled out, which leads unerringly to a crackup, is pure Kitchen Sink stuff.

John Osborne’s endless stream of rat-a-tat pissing and moaning could never compete with this couplet:

The devil came and took me
From bar to street to bookie

And Squeeze finishes up with the kind of denouement any writer dreams of writing, and usually misses by a mile:

Alone here in the kitchen
I feel there’s something missing
I’d beg for some forgiveness
But begging’s not my business
And she won’t write a letter
Although I always tell her
And so it’s my assumption
I’m really up the junction

Toe-tapping flash fiction, that.

The Sheet Metal Ship of Theseus

Everyone’s talking about Homer’s The Odyssey these days. Now, don’t get me wrong, Homer’s OK. If you want to get hopped up on hoplites, The Iliad‘s a great read. It’s got Achilles hectoring Hector until they go mano a mano in front of the trailer park of Troy. It used to have a hot Helen, and the original Greeks bearing gifts. Great stuff. Way to go, Homer. The Odyssey however, is plain goofy. As assigned reading, that book got thrown across the room more often than the TV guide.

If you’re in the market for Attic legends, my man Theseus was way more interesting than Odysseus. Only guy to go into the minotaur’s parking garage and come out victorious. United southern Greece under Athenian rule, and founded the cult of Aphrodite. You have to give it up for anyone who can start a cult and make it stick. I guess Waco is the exception that proves the rule.

It’s the ship of Theseus I’m especially interested in.

In Greek mythology, Theseus, the mythical king of the city of Athens, rescued the children of Athens from King Minos after slaying the Minotaur and then escaped onto a ship going to Delos. Each year, the Athenians would commemorate this by taking the craft on a pilgrimage to Delos to honour Apollo. Over time, various of its timbers rotted and were replaced. A question was raised by ancient philosophers: If no pieces of the original remained in the current ship, was it still the Ship of Theseus? If it was no longer the same, when had it ceased existing as the original ship?

I’ve been trying (unsuccessfully, natch) to convince people that a house is a ship of Theseus, lo these many years. And in my opinion, it’s a good thing it is. A house with components that “never need maintenance” is disposable, not permanent. I testify that people actually used to like caring for their homes. They used to putter around on the weekend, stripping screws, mowing their brown lawns, and wearing out the knees on their jeans. Now people’s houses are plastic, the people mostly are, too, and jeans are purchased with the knees blown out while they’re still on the rack.

It’s lonely out here in the intellectual forest, so I’m forced to quote myself on the topic:

People don’t like this idea. They want to think of their house as a permanent structure. Don’t get me wrong, they want to tinker with it. But they only want to add stuff. They just don’t ever want to maintain the place. They want to buy hot tubs and tanning beds and ceiling fans and exercise bikes and GATHER signs from the Hobby Lobby, and put them hither and yon in their house. They build rooms in the basement to do what they should be doing in the rest of the house, but you can’t watch football with a Live Laugh Love sign hanging over your couch. That’s the living room, where normal people don’t live. The neighbors would mock you.

So, what’s all this got to do with a 1973 Mercury Shitbox Montego? Everything, sorta. It illustrates the maxim, “History doesn’t repeat itself, but it often rhymes.” Simon Fordman, the ingenious and dedicated fellow you see in the video fixing that car, is demonstrating a new generation’s rhyming version of my affection for the Single Family Dwelling Ship of Theseus. My example was sticks and bricks — a house. His is sheet metal and Naugahyde. Either can continue being the original, useful thing, no matter how much of it you have to swap out over the years.

Simon is not alone. Kids these days (I can’t believe I just typed that) are fascinated with old cars in the same way I’m fascinated by old houses. They love wrecks long destined for the crusher, but somehow left rusting away in a field or a barn somewhere. My own son used to look at Bring a Trailer before he was old enough to drive. They see the value in them, no matter how ugly (honestly, a Montego?) they are.

Why aren’t kids as interested in the Ship of Real Estate Theseus as I am? I’m not sure I can blame them. Maybe it’s the total takeover of every aspect of home improvement by the distaff set. Hoary old shows like This Old House used to show actual work being performed by actual men. Now construction cable shows are all girls picking out throw pillows and hanging Gather signs, occasionally pretending to operate tools, while anonymous dusky men scurry around in the background doing all the real work while trying to avoid deportation. When construction becomes Shoe Shopping at Home Depot, maybe men look elsewhere for a safe space. Old cars will fit the bill until men are driven out of that, too.

I’ve posted a handful of car restoration (resurrection, really) videos recently. I especially like the examples with no soundtrack or banter, like this Montego exorcism. It seems like just another way for a new generation to differentiate themselves from an older one, who favored Born to Be Wild background soundtracks for their car repair videos. Working alone is quite common among the younger set, although they have a network of like-minded friends when they need a hand or a carburetor part or something.

Kids figure that a vehicle is a valuable thing, worthy of their busted-knuckle blood and auto parts receipt treasure. Why wouldn’t they? There’s real treasure hidden under the mold and mouse droppings of an abandoned car. Let’s say a new car costs fifty grand. That’s just the cover charge, of course. In addition, you have to pay exorbitant interest on elephantine loans, taxes out the wazoo, and even if it’s brand new, eyewatering mandatory maintenance costs performed by dealer mechanics in lab coats with big clipboards to hold all the zeros on the bill.

Part of this trend is simply what’s possible nowadays. Nothing in any of these car restoration videos is mysterious to me. I’ve done a slipshod job at a lot of the operations depicted. But back in the day, both the information necessary to know what to do, and the availability of car parts to do it, was light years harder to find. These guys are performing miracles, don’t get me wrong, but maybe the most miraculous thing is how easy it is for them to immediately get any kind of gasket, belt, or rebuild kit for 50-year old cars. We had to fight snakes in junkyards to get the same stuff most of the time. And the knowledge? Mostly hard knocks, and hearsay back before the intertunnel. These videos are incredible not only for what they’re accomplishing, but how well they’re depicting it. It’s cinematic shop class, and you could take a whack (literally, sometimes) at fixing a similar car just by watching a few of these videos. And stocking up on Marvel Mystery Oil, transmission fluid, and band-aids.

So stay with me here. If a new car is worth fifty grand plus, then an abandoned car is worth that, too, if all you care about is using it for its intended purpose, which is transportation. In the words of Peter Lawrence of Arabia O’Toole, what seems impossible to some is quite doable if you’re dedicated enough to pull it off. “It’s only a matter of going.”

And bringing a trailer.

Month: August 2026

Find Stuff:

Archives