Windowbox Extravaganza -Day Five..Er…Six

[Editor’s Note: Day five or six, I’ve lost count, of the windowbox debacle. I think it’s day five; I can’t remember. Six days. Sheesh. And I’m not sure it’s over yet.]
{Author’s Note: Yeah, but the window box is just a pretext to write in my inimitable and compelling style.}
[Editor: Sez you.]

Ever mow the lawn with a toddler in your lap on the tractor? What an expression he has the entire time. Beatific, true, but something of a game face too. Grim determination. I imagine you have the same expression on your face if you’ve been following along with this window box business. At this point, I’m like a Wallenda,- you’re vaguely interested in what I’m doing, but you wouldn’t be totally surprised or disappointed if I fell. Well, let’s see.

Now, I’ve got a table saw. Three, actually. I’m not sure if you do. Many people have one in their basement, gathering dust, if not sawdust. It makes it easier to trim this thing out, if you do, but it’s not mandatory.

What I want you to do, is take a length of 2-1/2″ wide pine, and rip it in half, sorta. Set the fence for 1-1/4″, and the blade will take his vigorish, and the waste side of the cut will be a little thinner. No matter. The 1-1/4″ wide piece should be the same length as the battens you cut for the front and back of the box, in my case, 39″. But I told you before, why measure? Lay the piece on the span, and mark the cut right on it. You can’t go wrong that way, and save walking over to the saw, mumbling to yourself: “38 inches, and one big line, and two sorta big lines, and two teeny hash marks” over and over, and mismeasuring. Take the waste cutoff from the 1-1/4″ strip, and cut two pieces 7-3/4″ long, and glue and nail them on both ends of the front panel, flush with the edges. The last picture shows it better than I can explain it.

Which reminds me. I’ve got lots of books about making things. Houses, boats, furniture, paintings, all kinds of things. And I can tell you modern books about making things look so much better than old books. They have acres of pictures showing you precisely how to do what’s being done. Even my modest little “What’s New Page” can bring instant digital photos and accompanying text, with links to buy the things I’m using, and accompanied by the occasional pictures of dead actresses for good measure. Amazing, and good.

But I can tell you dear reader, that the books I treasure the most have few, or no illustrations in them. They’re usually 50 plus years old, some much older, and they contain more information than modern books, which are loaded with space gobbling visual information. Since books were precious then, and rarer than they are now, the people who wrote and published them really seemed to be able to write well. The modern ease of photography and writing has removed the heavy lifting of publishing, and we’re all 90 lb weaklings compared to our immediate predecessors. There’s a lot of information in a fifty year old textbook. There’s a lot of pictures and white space in a new one. The modern how- to books are not even in the written tradition, I think, they’re more like the experience of working along with someone, like a helper. It’s an oral tradition they mimic, and they’re not even trying to write, they’re writing down what they would say, instead. Which is fine, and useful in its way, but…

[Author’s Note: This windowbox thing was originally written three years ago. Please note during the following that I had the idea for “The Dangerous Book For Boys” back then, and there would be no marbling paper in mine. Where the hell is my book advance?]

I have a book reprinted in 1924, originally published in 1905, entitled “The Scientific American Boy.” It’s filled with a compendium of industrious activities for young men. The book itself is a wonder. It is sparsely populated with a few crude line drawings of the items being discussed, and tons of lapidary and useful text. And they expected you to make, and use, for amusement, the following items: a skating sailboat; snowshoes; a tent; a crossbow; surveying instruments; canvas canoes; rope ladders, a tree house; a derrick and windmill to pump water; a scow with a sail; a toboggan; a winter shelter; a small sailboat; a hammock; paper kites; a water wheel; a log cabin with a fireplace; a gravity railroad, which is essentially a handmade rollercoaster; a cantilever bridge that any modern civil engineer couldn’t improve upon; and dozens of other things to make and use, made from readily available things using hardly any tools.

And the part that strikes me as most extraordinary about the whole thing is the fact that you could make this stuff with just a few crude drawings because the text is so well thought out, terse, and incisive. Now it’s also neat to think of children making all that stuff and, well, playing outside, but let’s leave the pontificating about “kids these days” out of it. Those kids nowadays have different skills, and they’re not necessarily inferior. The average teenager knows more about a computer that Bill Gates does, for instance.

And each and every one of those venerable books sits on the shelf and mocks me silently when I write, like I did two paragraphs ago: “The last picture shows it better than I can explain it.” Oh well.

OK, back to business. Now you need 2″ wide stock for the little frames on the sides. Rip it on the tablesaw, if you’ve got one, or make do with the 2-1/2″ stuff. Because the front is canted forward, and the sides are vertical, the 2″ side frames will align themselves visually with the 2-1/2″ frame on the front. Now if you inspect the last picture, you’ll see we have covered up all the screw fasteners and the laminated edges of the plywood. And the 2″ wide pieces align perfectly, cut square, to the little canted portion of the sides. The frames will add the play of light and shadow, and depth, to the whole enchilada, and a certain “whatsis,” as Bertie Wooster would say.

In that last picture, I’ve also laid out what’s coming next, in advance, just like you do when telling a bad joke, which I am also an expert at.

Glue and nail the 1-1/4″ strip on top of the back. Cut 2 pieces from 2-1/2″ wide stock, 7-7/8″ long, to the long point, with a 15 degree bevel on the front edge- just like the battens we put under the bottom. There’s that 15 degree thing again. It’s kismet. Or destiny, Or schadenfreude. Or something. Glue and nail them atop the sides, as shown. Now measure the span from the outside to the outside edge. Better still, lay the 2-1/2″ front nosing right on it, mark it, and cut, glue and nail it. Now we’re done. Making the box, that is.

Now, a window box does best when it sits on a shelf or brackets, it’s true, but we’re going to hang this lickity split, and make our bets and take our chances, as they say at the track, and get to the grille earlier.

This next thing is complicated, I know. Gird your loins. Buck up. I have faith in you.

Get some galvanized screws. Long ones. Now I prefer bent ones, because I’m strange, and cheap. You could use straight, brand new ones, but where’s the challenge in that? Suit yourself. Get 4 of ’em at least, whatever you choose, a box of mud is heavy.

We’ve got to go through, let’s see, 1/2″ of MDO, a 3/4″ cleat, +/- 1/2 ” of shingles or clapboards or somesuch siding, and another 1/2″ of sheathing, just to get to something substantial, framing wise, under the sill. What you’re looking for is the framing subsill, usually a doubled 2 x 4 affair, buried in the wall under window opening. You need 3-1/2″ to 4″ screws, galvanized, to find it and grab it. Tuck the box up under the sill, so that rain from the window sill drips into the box. Predrill the four holes, evenly spaced, about 1-1/2″ inches down inside the box, using the nifty bit you got at Amazon through my search box, that’s putting my kids through school.

Now comes the really hard part. Drive those four screws, through all that stuff, and be sure to strip the heads just as the heads snug up to the MDO. Don’t strip the heads too soon, or the screws will stick out into the box and annoy the ladybugs, and your window box will rattle around. But it is important that you strip the screws horribly, just like the professionals do. Otherwise, when the box is old and tattered and the next occupants of your home want to remove it, and they want to continue the ancient and time-honored tradition of swearing and cursing the thoughtless Neanderthal person who installed the blasted thing in the first place, they will not be disappointed. Of such traditions, civilization is built.

Tomorrow: Paint and Flowers! I guess. Is this thing on?

The Windowbox Archipelago

[Editor’s Note: Part 5 of our continuing series: How to turn four hours of banging nails three years ago into two weeks of blog posts.]
{Author’s Note: It’s so cold in Massachusetts today, the flashers are just describing themselves to passersby. But we’ll need windowboxes eventually, won’t we? There is no editor.}

Good day sirs, or madams. I must make furniture today. I have a bunch of legs and aprons ready to be assembled into tables in the wood laboratory, and must get to them. Now, I could spend the whole morning staring at the computer screen until drops of blood appear on my forehead, trying to conjure up a joke about legs and aprons and The Rockettes all getting married at the same time, but I can’t spare the time, really. So on to the windowbox.

What the hell are those? you just said. Never you mind. just make five of them and be still. They are 4-5/8″ long to the long point, and are angled at 15 degrees like the mark says. They’re made from leftover 2-1/2 inch stock. You have a lot of scraps left over, no doubt, because you didn’t measure anything twice, and cut a bunch of stock too short, and wasted it. (whistles, walks away with hands in pockets)

Ahem. You will notice that you cut a strip 4-5/8″ wide, an eternity and one internet post ago. Perhaps they are related somehow, ya think? We used to call a revelation like that “Light dawns over Marble Head” at work in these parts.

When you’re new on the job, inevitably some old coot would send the “new guy” out to the truck to get a Board Stretcher, or a Johnson Rod, or a Gazinta, or a Left Handed Screwdriver, or some other imaginary tool, and the other old hands would have a snicker at the poor young lad as he nodded as if he understood, and went out to the truck on a fool’s mission. Of course, the kid is never that dumb, he just plays along with the old knucklehead, because five minutes alone at the truck is five fewer minutes listening to the old buzzard flapping his gums. And he returns empty handed, feigning sheepishness, and the tired, disreputable, and infantile men would jape: “Light dawns over Marble Head!,” and then talk about it and rehash it for a month.

Of course the kid is putting himself through college by working in construction, speaks three languages, and can figure differential equations by the hour, but to them, he’s a dope. Eventually, they will all be working for this boy.

Anyhow, Marblehead is a lovely north shore town here in Massachusetts, but you people in flyover country can substitute “the bulkhead” for “Marblehead”. When you’re insulting people, it really doesn’t require that much precision.

Where were we? Oh yes. The mystery blocks. Do this with them:

One on each end of the bottom strip (the 4-5/8″ wide piece), one in the middle, and split the difference with the other two. Ensure that all the beveled edges are all on one side, or it will be wrong, and you will be unhappy. Glue the blocks on, and pound some galvanized nails, less than 1-1/4″ long, either through the MDO into the pine, or through the pine into the MDO. Or use screws, whatever. Get your drill motor. Did you know that’s what it’s actually called? The drill is actually the thing you call a drill bit. You can tell the old guys that at work, to impress them with your booklearnin,’ when they call it “the drill,” or “the screwgun,” or the “hand me that thing right there,” and point like an infant at what they want.

They may be impressed with your knowledge, but I doubt it.

They will most likely say: “Shut the !@#$ up and give me that @#$%ing thing there and put a sock in it.” Then they’ll send you to the truck to get a Knot Burnisher or a Sledgeruler.

Oh yes, the drill. Drill some holes in the bottom. (yes, that’s the bottom) I drilled twelve 1/4″ holes. You can drill as many as you like, any old way. But somehow, you’ll sleep better if every time you drill things, whether they show or not, you put them in rows, neatly. It shouldn’t matter, they’re just there to let the water out of the box. No one will ever see them, probably. It shouldn’t matter, but somehow it does. Ask a Tibetan monk or a feng shui necromancer why, I don’t know.

Right about now, you’re asking yourself, is this thing ever going to be done? Well, to tell the truth, I finished it yesterday, three hours after I started it. Including painting it twice. But then again, I didn’t have me waxing nostalgic and poetic about the darn thing the whole way through, like you do. I simply made it.

Glue the pine 1 by 3 strips to the front and back MDO pieces, (7-1/2″ back, 7-3/4″ front) like so, and nail, or screw them through the MDO into the pine, with fasteners less than 1-1/4″ long.

 

Like dudes, you need two of these. They’re totally gnarly endcaps for this bitchin’ box, dudes. I like, drew all over it so you’ll, like, know the score, but it’s like, optional to do that, dude.

Sorry. Use the nine inch wide strip to make these, with lots left over. There’s that 15 degree angle again. It appears from time to time, like channeling Spiccoli does. I nipped the top right corner off this piece after I took the picture. To do so, connect a line perpendicular from the right (angled) side to the top side, 1-1/4″ long. That’s where the MDO line I’ve drawn meets the top. That’s hard to follow, but you’ll see it in the next picture.

Assembly time. The pine battens are always facing out. Screw (or nail, if you prefer) through the end caps into the ends of the pine. Glue everything. Screw through the back batten into the bottom battens .The beveled ends of the bottom battens face front, to accept the angled front, if you hadn’t picked up on that already. See Marblehead remark above.

I’m using aluminum screws, because they are cheap and don’t rust away to nothing in a week. I countersink the heads using a reversible drill bit that makes a pilot hole, then you flip it around and it drives the screw, without removing the whole bit from the drill motor chuck. It’s the greatest invention in the history of mankind, the wonder bra excepted. You can click on the Amazon box in the right hand column and search for “countersink drill driver” or something near to it and find it. You’re on you own as far as the wonder bra goes. Victoria’s Secret sends two catalogs every day to every single address in the US, and hands them out to homeless people as well, I imagine, so it shouldn’t be too difficult for you to lay your hands on one. A catalog, I mean. Oh, never mind.

Make it like that. I added two little 1 by 3 blocks to the front, to make a frame. Measure them to fit. ( In theory they’re 2-3/4″ long, but you measure them to fit because, well, we’re slapping this together and who knows what you ended up with) Glue them and nail them. You can see why we nipped the corner off the end caps, to align with the angle of the front.

OK, that’s a window box. But it’s too darn plain. If we wanted a primitive, we would have just faced nailed five roughsawn boards together. We’re going to dress this up a little.

Tomorrow. I guess. Sure. Why not?

Four Days Of Windowbox And Counting

Now back to that window box.

We need a plan, and the boat plan won’t do. But it’s going to take longer to draw a plan than to make the darn thing. Let’s just grip it and rip it, shall we?

Alrighty then. Here we are, ready for a sheet of MDO. Now all those people who offered you all the advice about indestructible windowbox construction aren’t going to like my sawhorses. That’s because, Ladies and Gentlemen, everyone has a different plan for sawhorses. It’s like DNA. No one has your exact formula, unless of course you’re OJ Simpson.

Now I admit, my sawhorses are made from packing crate lumber and cobwebs. I’ve been given plenty of advice on how to improve them, all of it unsolicited. But then again, I made them shortly after Reagan had his first inauguration, and they’ve been stored outdoors for a good part of the interval between then and now, and used, abused, and knocked about considerably quite regularly, and I’m still using them. Many of the people who offered me critiques on them have passed to their reward, while my horses are still going strong. I endeavor to attend the funerals of these kind souls, who tried to save me from the shame of inferior sawbucks, without being asked. My wife always wears a red dress, and I whistle during the eulogy, generally.

I once visited The Orange Place, and saw to my consternation, pre-made sawhorses. The horror! I thought it was illegal to buy a sawhorse. At least from a zen point of view, if you don’t make your own, how can anyone trust you to make anything atop them?

At any rate, the two by fours atop those horses are cut from trees that weren’t planted yet when I made them, and they still don’t wiggle in the joints. The two by fours keep the sheet we’re about to cut from collapsing when you’re 90% done crosscutting it, and drawing snickers from your neighbors. They’ll be over offering advice on sawhorse construction, if you falter, so use the studs.

Right there is the the majority of the elaborate toolset you need to make this thing, dear reader. The saw goes back to John Kennedy’s inauguration. A tape measure, a ruler, and forty year old circular saw. Okay, set the circ-saw depth to a little over 1/2″ depth of cut, and cut the panel in half length wise. You’ll be left with two four foot square pieces. They’ll be easier to handle than the whole sheet.

Cut a 9″ wide strip off the side of the half sheet. Save it for later, now cut single pieces 7-3/4″ wide, 7-1/2″ wide, and 4-5/8″ wide, all 39″ long. Like this:


Now, the piece might not be precisely 39 inches long. Why? Because when you ripped the 9 inches off the sheet, the saw blade took a little for himself. It doesn’t matter. Whenever possible, we’re gonna use the articles themselves to measure, not a ruler, and save trouble. I’ve never understood this measure twice cut once business. I’ve heard it all over the place. Books, TV shows, radio, on t-shirts and mugs. But let me tell you friends, in the real construction world, things move fast. And in the real world, the real motto is: Measure twice… Hey! what’s taking so long? Why didn’t you measure correctly the first time? You’re fired! Something like that.

Use one of the strips you just cut for a ruler to measure four 1 by 3 pine strips like you see above (read yesterday’s essay to find out how big a 1 by 3 is.) I put the glue in that last picture for a reason. We’re gonna use it, because it can’t hurt. Make sure you get exterior glue, the interior stuff isn’t water resistant. It’s the nails and screws that hold this thing together, but let’s give the adhesive a fighting chance, and get the right stuff.

Hey, we’re actually doing things now. You must be exhausted. The sun goes down early this time of year, when it’s not in your eyes. Take the rest of the weekend off, and return tomorrow for day of rest amusement, and Monday for the beginning of the end of the beginning of building the windowbox.

Window Box Hostage: Day Three

OK. Back to that window box. Let’s get the material selection out on the table, so you can get lots of good and bad advice about it from everyone. You’ll hear things like:

It’s gotta be cypress, for rot resistance.

It’s gotta be pressured treated wood, ditto.

It’s gotta be cedar, ditto.

It’s gotta be lined with copper, or it will rot.

Don’t make it from metal, it cooks the plants.

Make it from pine, so it will paint up well.

It’s gotta be marine plywood, assembled with epoxy, or it will delaminate.

And so forth.

Well, it could, but doesn’t have to be any of those things dear reader. You’re gonna get ten, maybe fifteen years, tops, out of your window box, no matter how indestructible it is. Let’s keep it simple, and well, picturesque.

We’re gonna make the box out of MDO. Medium Density Overlay. Why? Because it’s cheap, and easy to work with, and strong, and not too heavy, and it paints up well, and it holds a screw pretty good. MDO is the stuff that road signs were made from, before they were made of steel. It is an exterior plywood, with waterproof glue, and a tough paper face on it, impregnated with waterproofing too. It’s a light golden color when you buy it around these parts.

You can make two window boxes out of half a sheet of MDO. A full sheet is 4′ x 8.’ You could get four out of that, easy. We’ll also use some pre-primed #2 pine, 3/4″ thick, and 2-1/2″ wide, for the bands around the box, to stiffen and adorn it. You’ll need about 16 linear feet per box. They call that a 1 by 3. That’s called its nominal size, and traces the measurement of the lumber back to before it is dried, and shrinks, and is dressed to its final dimensions. It does seem to the fledgling lumber purchaser that calling something 3/4″ x 2-1/2″ a 1 by 3 is like calling the small coffee a medium, and figuring no-one will notice. But you are in the lumber yard now, dear reader, and they’re not trying to pull a fast one; believe me, they don’t feel the need to make any bones about taking the shirt off your back for a strip of wood a bird was chirping in a few weeks ago. It’s just one of those interesting and time honored traditions that traces its roots back to Noah, and people who know that sort of thing, know that sort of thing.

Now if you go to the Big Orange Place and ask for MDO, the pleasant teenage girl or boy with the orange smock and braces might mistake it for MDF, which is medium density fiberboard, and entirely the wrong article. MDF is brown talcum powder, mixed with nasty glue, pressed into big rectangles. It’s what bad furniture is made from. It lasts approximately ten minutes outdoors, unless it rains, in which case it disintegrates immediately. And it weighs +/- 750 pounds per sheet, or so it seems to if you try to carry it. And it’s loaded with formaldehyde from all the glue. Every single thing in IKEA is made out of it. Buy Sippican instead.

Anyway, 1/2″ thick MDO is what you want.

Now we’re gonna start measuring. You should too. How wide is the window you’re adorning? No, no, not the window sash alone. You should include the casings that flank it too. I’ve got 40″ here. That’s about average, and not too long for one trough. Really long windowboxes are generally a more difficult proposition, they have a tendency to bow out in the middle of the span from the weight of the wet soil and plants, and require either many partitions along their length, or better yet, you can divide the window box into more than one box. I’ve made them 10-12 feet long on occasion, but there’s a lot more structure in those than we need to deal with here.

(The box is under the three windows ganged together on the right, waiting for spring planting. BTW, the entire “gingerbread” front of that house is MDO, with pine battens on it. It’s great stuff.)

Wow, you look fatigued. You go rest. We’ll bring out the sawhorses tomorrow.

The Windowbox: What’s In It For Me?

 


Well, as reader and commenter Ruth Anne pointed out: geraniums. Of course, to impress your friends you draw back upon yourself and say: “Geraniums? Certainly not! Pelargoniums!” Of course we’re down home people here at Sippican Cottage and just refer to everything as: “Dah flowahs.”

The windowbox we’re going to make is well suited to geraniums. There you see it just planted with little nursery geraniums and a few vinca vines to eventually droop down. The spot gets good sun in the afternoon so the blooms come. The plants get quite tall for how little soil there is for them to grow in. See yesterday’s photo.

We filled another box of the same design with begonias, which show flowers even though the window faces northwest, ie: never gets any sun.

So what’s a window box for, exactly? Well, it’s got a few uses. In urban settings, it might be all the outdoor plants you’re going to get. In suburbia, the plantings around the house are generally there to blunt the join between the ground and your house. But you can’t see them much from inside the house. Getting them up at sill level brings the outdoors inside a bit, without transferring the buckets of mud indoors.

The purpose of most plants in home landscaping is to achieve a picturesque effect. I’m not sure very many people understand that. There is a melding of cognitive dissonance with a sort of Home Depot delirium tremens in evidence in most landscaping. The houses look like they are at war with the yard; the plants look disconnected from one another and the house; everything is laid out like a farm plot, which is is by its nature unnatural looking; and neatness to the point of plasticity is prized over the picturesque. Your plantings need to be a well organized mess to achieve a picturesque effect. That’s subtle, so it’s harder to understand than a profoundly organized sterile looking yard.

Other than vines creeping right up the siding, the windowbox is the easiest way to further banish the dotted line between inside and outside, harsh and soft, and nature and artifact. And deer don’t like to eat out of them. If you want flowers around here, that’s pretty much your first and only consideration.

You can click on the Amazon box in the right hand column and search for books about what kind of plants you might want to put in there. Then decide which window you want to put the windowbox under, and measure it. Windowboxes traditionally are made the width of the sash, but I like to make them the width of the sash and frame.

There. Day 2 of making a windowbox is over, and you haven’t hit your thumb or broken a sweat. See? I told you it would be easy. Tune in tomorrow and see if we’re actually accomplishing anything yet.

Tag: gardening

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