Pellet Stove Lovin’

If you just wandered in, we bought a pellet stove several years back to replace our wood-burning furnace. One of these:

 

It’s a Vader C3PO. It has astromech force lightning ignition, and blows 7 parsecs of Unifying Force out of its…

Sorry, I got to musing about its design ethos, and my mind wandered. Jayzus, it’s ugly. It could be worse, though. The more expensive pellet stoves try to make their units look more swoopy or Telluride-y or folksy or something, and they end up looking as elegant as a gaudy cement mixer.

Ours is a Vogelzang VG 5790. I’m not sure if you can buy one anymore. They still appear on the Orange Place website, for instance, but they intone out of stock rather ominously. The price listed is more than twice what we paid for ours. And of course the price for the unit isn’t the whole story. You’ll need some double-walled pipe for venting the exhaust, and if you’re smart, you’ll get a fresh air return kit for combustion air, too. We escaped for less than two grand for everything, including a ton of pellets, but we got a floor model and bought it back when no one was buying much of anything. Good luck now, folks.

It’s an interesting device. The fire in the burn chamber is basically outdoors. It’s totally enclosed and gasketed. You draw in fresh air from outside, burn pellets with the air, and exhaust it through another pipe. There’s a barbarous heat exchanger with a fan to circulate air from the room past the steel back wall of the combustion chamber and out that grate in the front. The sides are on hinges, and you open it up to get at all the fans and sensors and so forth. The door with the glass in it hinges open, too, to clean it out. I know these things intimately, because you have to clean out a pellet stove a lot. No one does, but you have to.

I’ve read about eleventy zillion scathing diatribes of why this pellet stove doesn’t work. Sometimes I think the internet is like a suggestion box at a factory. It’s only there to make people think they’re accomplishing something by complaining, and to identify cranks to be weeded out. Everyone complains about this stove. I’ve made a handy little list of my analysis of the most common problems people report with this stove:

  1. You ignored the installation instructions and put the stove pipe inside the house because you wanted to get the last BTU off it before it went outside. It’s designed for a stack effect in the pipe it never achieves indoors. So it doesn’t make many BTUs, but it sure gets dirty
  2. The stove is dirty
  3. The stove needs cleaning
  4. The stove is still dirty after you cleaned it
  5. The stove pipe is full of soot
  6. The stove is full of soot
  7. The stove needs to be cleaned out
  8. Clean the stove, will ya?
  9. The pellets are wet. And by the way, the stove is dirty
  10. The pellets bounce out of the burn pot, because the stove is dirty, and make the stove dirtier

That’s my analysis of what’s really going on, mind you. The complainants have other ideas, including: THIS THING IS A PIECE OF JUNK SCAM AND THE COMPANY WON’T DRIVE TO MY HOUSE AND FIX IT FOR FREE BECAUSE IT’S A SCAM AND I WANT TO RETURN IT BUT IT WEIGHS 300 POUNDS WHAT A SCAM AND I’VE REPLACED THE CIRCUIT BOARD THREE TIMES BUT IT STILL DOESN’T HEAT MY AIRPLANE HANGAR LIVING ROOM AND HOW MANY TIMES DO YOU EXPECT ME TO CLEAN THIS THING OUT I DID IT TWICE LAST YEAR!!!!!ELEVENTY!!!

It’s the company’s own fault, at least a little. They try to sell this thing like it’s a dishwasher or a refrigerator or something. They tell suckers potential purchasers that it’s a breeze to operate, and only needs a little attention from time to time, and is so quiet you can hear your significant other beckoning you to the toasty bed for some pellet stove lovin’.

Well, it ain’t like that. It reminds me of big, cast-iron stationary woodworking equipment. You know, table saws and lathes and suchlike. Most come packed in gun grease in a crate and the instructions read: If you need instructions, you shouldn’t have bought this. The pellet stove has plenty of instruction, written in delightful Chinglish. They’re beside the point, really. You’re going to have to learn how this thing operates, and work on it to make heat come out of it. There’s no way around it.

Luckily, it’s a pretty simple machine. You open the hopper on the top, and pour in wood pellets. An auger in the bottom of the hopper turns and the pellets are transported up a chute to drop unceremoniously down another chute into a burn pot in the burn chamber. There’s an igniter that aligns with one of the many holes in the burn pot, which ignites the pellets (well, it’s supposed to). A fan blows the exhaust gas out of the house when a sensor on the fan tells it that the air is hot. Another fan comes on when a sensor on the back wall of the burn chamber tells it some heat is available. That fan sucks in cool room air, and blows it out the front. toasty hot.

But of course there’s a problem. Someone decided that a pellet stove needed software. That same someone has decided that your car needs software, and your dishwasher, and your vacuum cleaner, and your stove, and your doorbell, and your blender, and your coffee maker, and your pacemaker…

I don’t know how to say this without hurting Bill Gates’ feelings, so I’m just going to say it: All software sucks. All of it. And adding software to anything always makes it work worse. You could replace the circuit board on this pig with three or four switches, or a dial or two, and the stove would run better. But then you couldn’t pretend that anyone could own this stove, and run it like it was an air conditioner or a toaster.

Vogelzang means “bird song” in German. Apparently the birds in Germany make a loud fan noise when they catch on fire. But we didn’t care too much about that, because it was going to make as much heat as our wood furnace, more or less, and it could run for more than a day without refilling it. But first we had to get it in the house.

[To be continued}

God Only Knows How I Feel About Pellet Stoves

So we were going to do what we were expressly told not to do. Again. We were going to buy a pellet stove and try to heat a whole house with it.

I was in good company. Everyone buys a pellet stove or wood-burning furnace and immediately ignores the not-very-fine BOLD print that tells you not to try to use these “add-on” stoves and freestanding appliances as your main(e) source of heat. They’re supposed to supplement your existing heating system. You know, the one you don’t have, or you wouldn’t be buying a big, honking pellet stove. In their hearts, they know that you can’t depend on these things to work continuously and reliably. They’re just getting out in front of their scathing Yelp reviews with a big warning not to even try it.

There are such things as pellet furnaces, and they can act as a 100% substitute for an oil burner or gas furnace or whatever. They’re really big, and really expensive, and really weird, if you ask me. Burning pellets doesn’t lend itself to too much automation. When you’re burning other sorts of fuel, the thermostat goes off, the burner kicks on, and some fuel gets squirted into a burn chamber to boil water or heat  air or whatever. When it’s sweltering next to the thermostat, it turns off.

Pellets don’t co-operate like that. You have to ignite a hearty handful of them to get them going, and once they are going, they have to burn until they’re gone. That arrangement doesn’t work all that well with thermostats. But if you must, you can see how you can have an oil boiler without the oil:

There’s some handwaving in there about emptying ash drawers and so forth. But I didn’t need that to put me off a fully automated hands-off pellet heating system. They all cost eleventy-gorillion dollars, and I only have toll change and couch cushion pennies to spend on my setup.

So we would be buying an appliance, not a heating system. A freestanding pellet stove, not a pellet furnace or boiler. There are about eleventy-gorillion models and brands of pellet stoves, all sold by maybe three companies, and all made in one factory in Shanghai, from what I can gather.

A pellet stove works like this:

I looked around quite a bit. Everyone said buy a Harman pellet stove. They reminded me of woodworkers who demand that you only buy Delta tools, or mechanics and their Snap-On mania. A Harman stove cost like five grand and had to be installed by the dealer. Hard pass. We had to take care of this problem ourselves. We eventually cast a longing eye on a Vogelzang pellet stove at the local Harrow Stockpile store.

Why? Because it was big, and because it was cheap. Like our wood furnace, it was the floor model, and toddlers had been swinging on its door for several seasons. There were a few parts missing. But it made a lot of heat. How much heat, exactly? God only knows.

You see, pellet stove makers use the same dodge that wood stove dudes use. They tell you how many square feet of house you can heat with one, because, as you know, a dwelling just outside Miami Florida has the same heating load as one just outside Miami University in Ohio. If you take one of the salesman’s family hostage, and demand to know exactly how many BTUs the thing puts out, they’ll ask you which family member you’ve got chained in your basement. They won’t give up that kind of info for a mother-in-law or teenaged girl with an Instagram account. Under additional duress, they’ll blurt out 65,000 BTUs, which is a good honest lie. But you can work with it.

You see, you can do your own arithmetic here, and figure out just what percentage of the BTU number is bosh. The hopper of a VG 5790 holds 120 pounds of pellets. They claim it will run for up to 80 hours on that load, which is another fib, but let’s run with it. A little math get applied and it’s supposedly burning 1.5 pounds of pellets an hour. That’s 12,000 BTUs, if you give a very generous estimate of how many BTUs there are in a pound of pellets (8,000). These manufacturers seem to test their stoves with trees from the gasoline forest in a laboratory with 100% oxygen in it. But even crap pellets will give you 7,000 BTUs per pound, and la-di-da softwood pellets might give you 8,000.

What happened to 65,000 BTUs, you might ask. Well, the thing does have five speeds. Each increment dumps more pellets into the burn pot, turns up the fans, and give you more heat, but less and less of that 80 hour run time we mentioned. I guess in theory, you could get some of the magical jet fuel-soaked pellets these tests use, and turn the stove up to five, and squint some, and forget to turn off the regular furnace, and get somewhere close to 60,000 BTUs per hour. Of course they tell you not to run the stove on five continuously, or it will glow like Chernobyl after an hour or so.

But I didn’t really need to worry about the party line on how many BTUs this thing could put out. All I had to do was compare one company’s fibs to the other company’s lies, and take the one who told the biggest whopper. The Vogelzang VG 5790 was the biggest one there was, so that’s the one I wanted.

[to be continued]

[Update: many thanks to Cletus Socrates for his uber-generous hit on our tip jar, and his Christmas wishes. It is very much appreciated]

Urine Mead Smoothies and Other Discontents

Wait, what? All that blather and you’re not even burning firewood anymore? Have you no shame, Sippican?

No. No I don’t. I came defective from the factory. I shed my skin and slither away noiselessly pretty regularly. Get used to it.

The wood furnace doesn’t owe us anything. It’s still in place in case of emergencies. It’s a simple beast and will last a very long time. But relying on firewood for whole-house heat was too much work for us. It was very cheap to buy the furnace, it was very straightforward to install it, and firewood doesn’t cost much, at least in the scheme of things. But I wanted to sleep for four hours at a stretch once in a while.

I ruled out oil. Again. Oil heat is popular around here, almost universal, but it reminds me of picking a fight in a bar with someone you don’t know. He might go into the fetal position fairly readily. He might have a black belt. The point is, you don’t know what’s going to happen. Every few years, the price of heating oil goes parabolic. You might do your calcs at $2.50 a gallon, but find out someone got a tanker stuck in the Suez or something and the price goes to $5, and your bill goes to eleven. The heating plants are fairly complicated, and expensive. You have to know more than a little HVAC, electrical, and plumbing to install one correctly.

Propane is available around here. But it’s actually fairly expensive. The furnaces are cheap, though, but only if you get one that’s not very efficient. And if you install it wrong, your house can join the space program. hard pass.

But I needed something that ran for more than three or four hours at a stretch. I cast a longing eye at pellet stoves.

If you’re unfamiliar with pellet stoves, you’re not alone. They’re lumped in with everything labeled “biomass” in those weird websites where everyone is wearing socks and Birkenstocks, sporting a manbun, and saving the planet by recycling their urine into mead smoothies or something similar. But they’re not wrong, they’re just strange. Pellet stoves are pretty neat. If you’re wondering how pellet stoves compare to burning firewood, you can read this: Top Ten Ways Wood Pellets Beat Firewood.  If you scroll to the bottom to the comments, you can see the firewood devotees foaming at the mouth, but I can testify everything in that list is true.

Pellets look like this:

They’re little extruded cylinders of dried, chopped up wood. People think they’re made of sawdust, but they’re not, really. More like corn flake-sized wood chips. They’re fairly hard, and have a kind of glossy finish on them. That’s simply from the heat and the pressure of forcing them through an extruder. They’re 100% wood with no added ingredients. The ones on the left in the fuzzy photo are a mixture of hard and softwood. The ones on the right are 100% softwood. Softwood costs more, and burns hotter. They smell nice. I don’t know what they taste like, but I bet it tastes better than a urine mead smoothie.

Softwood burning hotter than hardwood sounds counterintuitive to many folks, but it’s true. There’s more lignin in softwood per pound, and lignin burns ever so much hotter than cellulose. The paper mill down the street captures the lignin from their wood chips, and only uses the cellulose part to make paper. The lignin is concentrated into a kind of all-natural crude oil they call “black liquor,” and burned on an industrial scale to make electricity. The hardwood/softwood mix is plenty good enough, and much cheaper; usually $50 per ton cheaper. Even cheap pellets are creeping up to $300 a ton nowadays, but when we started burning them, you could sometimes find them for around $200 a ton.

Pellets come in 40-pound bags, usually. You can buy them almost everywhere around here. There are a lot of brands, and people swear by or at one brand or another to taste. There are several pellet mills within driving distance of my house. The normal way to buy them is by the ton, however (50 bags of 40 pounds each), and to have them delivered. They’re shrink wrapped on the pallet to keep them dry. A pallet of pellets (that’s fun to say; go ahead, say it) looks like this:

This one’s half unwrapped, and ready to go down our pellet chute. That’s a little number we made to make life easier. There used to be a coal chute right there, and we repurposed the window to accept pellet bags. Like this:

You wax the plywood, of course. It’s also more fun to say wheee! as the pellets go down the chute. Well, it’s fun for the guy that doesn’t have forty pounds hurtling at his head.

A pallet of pellets (a ton) has about the same amount of BTUs in it as a cord of firewood, which made figuring out how much we needed easier. We usually bought eight tons, but had the deliveries come two tons at a time. My sons would stand in the driveway, unwrap the pallets, and send the bags down the chute one at a time. I was in the basement, and caught them, and stacked them on pallets in our basement. If you’ve never had forty pounds thrown at you 100 times in an hour and a half, you haven’t lived.

But hey, if we have eight tons of pellets in the basement, I suppose we should get a pellet stove. They’re hard to shoplift, so I guess we’ll have to figure out some way to buy one.

[To be continued]

A Kingdom Where The Sky Is Burning

Well, now that we’ve warmed up with lots of talk about firewood, I’ll going to pull the rug out from under you. I apologize in advance for that, and for the pun, too. We don’t burn firewood anymore.

We haven’t for a while now. It was the only way we could figure out to avoid freezing and starving here in the hinterlands. It’s bad manners to freeze and starve at the same time, I think. Smacks of an inability to make up your mind. So we had firewood for heat and ate peanut butter a lot and got by.

I could wax poetic about fires, if you like. I used to rouse myself at around 3 AM and go down in the basement in the dead of winter. I always loved that term, the dead of winter. There are two or three weeks here in late January where the daytime and nighttime temps don’t budge. The average is something like low 20s in the day and 6 at night. It just hangs there like that until a day or two into February when the average ticks up one degree, and you know the sun is spinning properly and the earth is tilting a smidge and you’re coming out of it. It’s generally those three weeks when you see -20F at night, and sometimes the daytime temp never cracks zero.

So I’d get up a half an hour before I went to bed, I think. I’d shuffle through the chilly kitchen, and stand for a long moment at the top of the stairs, and look out over the landscape. There’s no moisture in the air at those temps, so everything is as clear as the instructions for a hammer. If the moon is out, the bare trees spray their shadows over the snow in perfect relief, and you can’t tell what’s the tree and what’s the shadow sometimes. There are more stars than you’re used to. They were sprinkled nicely on the firmament in summer, but they’re blasted all over in the winter. There are so many that they seem to be holding hands. It’s too cold for anything to be out and about, but you look for foxes and fishers and moose and bears and deer just the same.

If you get up a little later, the sun puts on a show just over the horizon. It slinks behind the mountains and lights up the sky with delicate pinks and powder blues, with more than a hint of Maxfield Parrish in them. But you can’t linger. Down the stairs to the furnace, to make a fire.

When you’re really burning wood for heat, not just amusing yourself, you can make the old joke that this winter was so mild that you only needed one fire. It lasted from Halloween to St. Patrick’s Day, but it only took one match.

It’s really cold in the basement. We keep the rat run from the water meter to the water heater just above freezing, and leave the faucet dripping all night in the kitchen to keep the pipes from freezing. The first glass of water in the morning was kind of slushy sometimes.

I placed an overturned milk crate in front of the furnace door. There were buckets filled with junks of firewood nearby, placed there the afternoon before, because you don’t want to go outside until the sun is full up if you can avoid it. It takes twenty to thirty minutes to make a fire, and you can’t force the issue. Lord knows I tried, and failed, to hurry it up. It just does.

The fire looks dead out but it ain’t, unless you slept overmuch. You take a poker and rake through the coals, and they brighten up a bit. I coveted anything that could start a proper fire. Paper of any kind immediately got scarcer than a husband when the dishes need washing. My wife would collect egg cartons for me, the gray kind made of cellulose. I’d tear them in half. I’d go in the cutoff box from making furniture and such and fill the little egg holes with little bits of pine and curly maple and cherry and whatever else was in there. You’d lay some paper in, but twisted, so it wouldn’t ignite immediately.  Then you put the egg trays on top of the paper, and then a few sticks of kindling. Then you plopped the three or four logs from the bucket on top, while trying not to smother the whole thing. Open the ash door on the bottom of the stove, and you’re in business.  You hope.

Opening the ash cleanout door lets air underneath the coals, and if you did it right, the the whole thing comes alive without a match or any fussing. Do it wrong, and you have to take the whole mess out and start over in the cold.

This is when the cat would come out of nowhere and sit in my lap. Cats just know these things. The fire would start to perk up, and the heat coming out of the open furnace door was instant summer. The bottom door has to be closed as soon as possible, and judging the knife edge between the fire going out and a four alarm fire got to be an art. There is a cast iron spinner on the ash dump door, that lets in a little air after you close the door, but if you’re doing it right, you can close it. There’s a little air inlet in the firebox you’re supposed to fiddle with. I think it’s there to keep you busy, like a mobile over a crib.

The fire really gets going, and the jacket on the furnace creaks and groans like an uncle sitting down after Thanksgiving dinner. You wait and shiver until the temps in the chase between the firebox and the outside of the stove gets hot enough to trip a switch, and the big fan wakes up and starts blowing air up into the house, and you can go upstairs. In two or three hours, you can go down and simply drop more logs on top of the existing fire, and keep the thing going like that until you falter and fall asleep, and then it’s back to raking through the coals again.

A five-gallon pail holds a single fire.  We began to refer to days as “Six bucket days” or “eight bucket days” after looking at the weather and guessing a bit. On really cold days, you’d need twelve of them lined up. As E.B. White said, in Maine, winter is a full time job.

We did what we had to. We hung curtains in parts of the house to cordon them off from the heat we were hoarding elsewhere. For about a year, we put a thick sheet of foam insulation in the stairwell and abandoned the second floor entirely. My wife and I slept in our clothes sometimes. We turned on electric baseboard heat in the kid’s rooms at night, because kids shouldn’t suffer for their parents mistakes, should they? I could always rob a convenience store or something when the electric bill came, I thought.

And through the whole escapade, I patted myself on the back for my mental fortitude. By that, I mean I resisted the urge to climb inside the furnace each and every time I lit a fire. And for the whole twenty or thirty minutes it took the flames to infect the paper and the kindling, and creep up and over the logs in a wave, I daydreamed of sleeping four hours at a stretch. There was only one thing to do. Buy a pellet stove.

[To be continued. Thanks for reading and commenting and hitting the tip jar. It is much appreciated]

This Is Not ‘nam, This Is Firewood. There Are Rules.

Well, I’m going to tell you the rules, right now. These are not the rules you’ll find elsewhere on the intertunnel about drying firewood. I know, because before I gave up on that information enterprise, I checked them all out. They’re all wrong. Forget them. This is how you do it:

First, get a nice mix of hardwood. People get confused about burning hardwood and softwood, and start arguing, and hitting each other with axes, and nothing gets done. It’s interesting, but basically all wood is simply two ingredients: cellulose and lignin. Different kinds of wood have different ratios of those substances, and a varying melange of trace elements. If you like, you can read all about calcium carbonate and compare the trace amounts of manganese compared to boron over at Wikiwhatsis. Study up on alkenes and alkynes and alkanes to your heart’s content. But leave me out of it.

Why do you want hardwood? Because it’s denser. All other things being equal, denser is better. That’s about it. Oak makes great firewood. Maple makes good firewood. Birch makes good firewood. Around here, that’s about all you’ll get in your firewood delivery. Oak is the best, because it’s the densest. Denser wood burns longer and so you get to sleep three straight hours instead of two-and-a-half because you’re tending the stove, and if the fire goes out, it’s in the thirties in your living room in a hurry.

Oak is great for another reason. You see, when you burn wood, it becomes pyrolized. Pyrolosis is what happens to wood when you heat it up. It chars, and releases volatiles. It’s the volatiles that burn. That’s why flames appear in the air above a fire. It’s hard to get pyrolosis going if your wood isn’t seasoned correctly. Please notice I didn’t say “wet.” If the internal moisture content of your firewood is low, you can throw it in the furnace soaking wet on the outside, even caked with ice, and it will burn fine. Dry on the outside and wet on the inside won’t burn.

Another factor to consider is called coaling. Good luck looking that up on the intertunnel. I’ll explain it as best I can, seeing as how I barely understand it myself. Good firewood, like nicely dried oak, is dense, has a lot of BTUs in each junk, and burns longer than species like pine. It also coals nicely. Coaling is what happens when the wood is completely pyrolized, and slowly combusts with nearly no flame. In a furnace like ours, you can get quite a show in the observation window when you’ve got the air intakes just right, the fire just right, and the firewood just right. The charcoal remnants of the original logs emit some volatiles, but no smoke. The volatiles are ignited in the air above the fire, just under the baffle that leads out to the flue. They dance around like the aurora borealis. The wood is all black, and doesn’t seem to really be on fire, but it’s slowly consumed and gives off beaucoup heat. That’s coaling, and you want it.

So, how are you going to get it? Like this.

  • Stack your split logs in single rows. Never in a pile or with rows touching each other. Air has to circulate all around to dry the wood
  • Never try to dry your wood inside a structure or up against a structure of any kind. Sunshine and wind are your friend
  • The rows of logs should run vaguely east to west. The sun is in the south in our hemisphere. You want it shining on the long face of your woodpiles, not the ends
  • The woodpiles can be five feet high or so, to save space, but higher is a PIA
  • The wood piles should not be on turf or soil if you can avoid it. Moisture will come up out of the earth and set you back. Pavement is great for this. If you don’t have any, put down heavy plastic first
  • If you’re on pavement, you don’t have to put the wood up on anything. On bare ground, use pallets or something to get it up out of the muck
  • Put your first row on the southernmost part of the area you’re stacking wood in, at noon
  • Look at where the first row’s shadow falls. Put the second row up against the shadow, but not in it. The sun will shine on the face of every row, all day, more or less, if you repeat this strategy with every row.
  • You don’t need any kind of props to hold a firewood rick. Stack logs in alternating layers of three junks on the ends of the rows. They’ll hold
  • Your firewood will dry faster if you cover the top so rainwater or snowmelt doesn’t filter down into the center of the rows, but don’t cover the faces under any circumstances. If your firewood is 16″ long, cut OSB into 18″ strips and plop it on top of the rows. With barely an inch of overhang, the faces of the logs get wet during rainstorms, but that will help you, not hurt you. When the sun comes out, the wetness wants out of butt ends of the logs, and they split open nicely. That lets air get further into your junks. That helps get moisture out of the interior of the junks

That’s it. I’ve dried eight cords of wood in my back yard parking area in less than two months. And I have a moisture meter, so I’m not funning about it being dry. I took a sample from the middle of the pile, split it, and laid the moisture meter on the fresh face. Under 20% moisture in there and you’re good to go.

And what’s it like, to burn firewood for your heat? It’s fine, as long as you show no enthusiasm but don’t complain.

Interestingly, ‘Incompetence Polymath’ Is the Name of My Air Supply Tribute Band. But I Digress

Oh, I tried to burn that “seasoned” firewood, yes I did. When you’re cold, you make fires with what you have. But it was near impossible to set it on fire. I’d mix it with about 50% kiln dried cut-offs from the scrap bin, and when that got meager, I cut up usable lumber like 2 x 4s to supplement it. I pulled down the OSB ceiling in the basement, and chopped up some rude shelving to make fires underneath our asbestos firewood. It would have been easier to get rid of a corpse. Wet wood doesn’t burn.

I learned my lesson. If we were going to burn firewood, I’d have to dry it myself. When the spring rolled around, we still had some of the damp squib pile moldering in the yard. I was determined to use it next season, and get a whole lot more. I did a lot of research on drying wood for firewood.

The internet. Jayzuz, the internet. No one has any idea what they’re talking about on the internet. If they do, they’re buried so far down on the search results that you’d need a Geiger counter to find them. The more prominent the opinion, the more likely it is to either be useless or worse than useless. That’s why I’m so tickled that no one reads this website. Ipso facto it proves how smart I am. Sorta. I think. OK, maybe not. But I do know how to dry firewood. Here’s how:

First, get some firewood.

If you must, cut and split your own firewood. Many of my neighbors buy whole logs and have them dumped in their yards, and then cut, split, and stack them at their leisure. I can’t believe I put ‘leisure’ in a sentence about cutting, splitting and stacking firewood, but there it is, as prominent as a carbuncle on your nose. I do things like that to prove I’m not a bot. Bots never use the perfectly wrong word. They’re trained by reading the internet, so they use only vaguely wrong words.

Anyway, it’s too much work to process whole logs for the money you might save, if you ask me. You can buy cords upon cords of cut, split firewood and have it delivered. We did. The first full year, we bought 6 cords, but it wasn’t enough. We bought 8 the year after, and that wasn’t enough. As a matter of fact, the word ‘enough’ and the word ‘firewood’ have never been successfully concatenated before. You have to staple a ‘not’ in front of them like a hood ornament to get them to make sense.

Let’s move on, then. There are three kinds of firewood you can buy:

Kiln Dried Firewood-

Lawdy lawdy, Rockefeller, you’re buying firewood baked in an oven? It will be seasoned, I’ll say that for it. I think it would be smarter to go to the Orange Place and burn framing lumber. That’s kiln dried, too, and it might be cheaper. When I showed you the chart the other day in A Little Regler BTU Math with firewood prices, they weren’t referring to this kind of stuff. The chart says that firewood is $15.91 per million BTU. Kiln dried firewood would be about the same as buying heating oil, $25-$30 per million BTU. Maybe more. And I don’t know what your oil delivery service is like, but they don’t generally make you stack the oil, or carry it into the house in buckets. Rich people buy kiln-dried firewood to have showy fires in their ski lodges. We’re just trying not to freeze to death, or go broke(r). No need to explore KD further.

Seasoned Firewood-

This is going to be a lot easier on all of us if you simply discount the concept that seasoned firewood is actually seasoned. It’s not. It never is. The firewood dealer probably doesn’t know how to do it, and even if they do, they’re funning with you. Everyone will swear up and down that the log laid in the yard for a year, or the heap of split wood was only partially in a mud puddle all summer, or it was covered the whole time, so rain won’t get in, or whatever bosh the probably truly believe, but just nod and smile and ask for:

Green Firewood-

Look, the firewood isn’t going to be dry, no matter how much you beg and pay for seasoned wood. Why pay extra for it? In the off-season, which is roughly spring and summer and a little bit of fall, you can get all the green firewood you want, and you can take a third off the million BTU price that I mentioned earlier. It’s really cheap. Buy it cut, split, and delivered, and stack it yourself. Firewood dealers love selling green firewood because they split the stuff right into the back of their truck, and get rid of it immediately. It doesn’t take up space by hanging around pretending to get seasoned.

For all you Paul Bunyan wannabes out there, I can assure you that it’s still plenty of work to stack eight cords of wood. Lugging it inside, bit by bit, and burning it every day isn’t a picnic either. You can hang up your axe and still work on your pecs, I promise.

And now I’d like to say a word in defense of the firewood guy. I’ve lambasted him, excoriated him, mocked him, and cast aspersions on his wood-drying skills here. Doesn’t mean I don’t like him, or respect him. You see, I live in Maine, and it’s really hard to get cheated in Maine. People are generally honest and pleasant, if a bit taciturn. There are some sharp dealers, but not a lot of outright crooks in any walk of life. Plenty of people are incompetent, it’s true, because they’re people. Human being are frail, timid, defective creatures, or seem so until two of them reach for the last donut at the same time in the break room at work and start throwin’ hands. Then they seem plenty sturdy and forward. I’m not originally from Maine, so I’m a special case. I’m so bad at so many different things that I’m an incompetence polymath. Most people here, to their credit, specialize.

Let’s face it. It’s hard to dry firewood properly, and for the most part, it’s not practical for people who deal in firewood to do it for you. The only way to properly dry firewood is out in the open, on a hard surface, stacked neatly, with a cap on top of it, for a long time. If you’re dealing in hundreds or thousands of cords of wood, I can’t imagine how much space it would take up, and how much effort you’d have to add to the process (and the price) to handle it twice, or three times, instead of once. There’s a reason why firewood dealers have their junks in big piles. It’s the only thing that makes any sense.

Well, that and selling it for $100/cord more, because it’s “seasoned.”

[To be continued. Thanks for reading and commenting. Please tell a friend to visit Sippican Cottage]

Go Get The Witch’s Broomstick. Then We’ll Talk

So, if you’re following along in your playbook, we got the beast into the basement. My son thought about disowning me, but visions of heat in his bedroom took the edge off his discomfiture, if not off the ache in his arms. Of course in the basement didn’t exactly mean in place. This paperweight had to go, first:

There was a tag on it from the last time it was checked and cleaned. Ronnie Raygun says hi. It was good and rusty, and the jacket inside it was cracked. It’s possible it weighed more than the new furnace. But we didn’t mind that much, because we could treat it like the government treats taxpayers. We had a jolly time cutting all the pipes and wires.

We saved the copper pipe, because we’re honorary crackheads. We don’t take drugs, but we’ll tear out copper plumbing and bring it to the scrapyard for a few bucks. I’m sure the fellow there thought we were the neatest and politest crackheads in line, but I doubt he thought we were regular folks who needed the money. We’d be a rara avis in that milieu.

My older son sorta dreaded moving the thing, until I explained that I not only didn’t mind if we broke it some, I’d prefer that we broke it some. Sooner or later it would have to go to the scrapyard, too, and smaller pieces weigh less. We walked the thing across the floor to the door, looked both ways to avoid any deer wandering by who deserved a more dignified death, and then let that beast roll down the ramp and into the snow, where it lay until spring arrived. Fun.

We shouldered the new furnace into the old spot. There’s a concrete pad there in the floor, and it’s original equipment, so I’m sure there’s been something burning something there since 1901. There is a coal pen in the next room. There used to be a pass-through gap in the brick wall so you could finagle a shovel into the coal pile and load a furnace. I imagine they switched to burning oil not long after the house was built, though. Fuel oil heat has been pretty standard in Maine for a century.

So our furnace needs stove pipe into the thimble in the chimney. We’ll use the same thimble as the old unit. It will also require ducting to transmit the warmed air up into the rooms upstairs. We used galvanized stove pipe, 8″ in diameter, and made a little box to accept the pipe up under the dining room floor, which is almost right over the furnace. That box serves what used to be a big, cast iron cold air return in the dining room floor, which you might remember:

Instead of bringing cold air down to the furnace, we were going to blow it up into the dining room, which is more or less the center of the house.

The usual idea behind this kind of furnace is to make it a backup, or supplement to your existing furnace. You’re supposed to meld your new furnace hot air ducts into your existing hot air ducts. It’s essential if you do, to put a damper in so you’re not blowing hot air from your oil burner into the stove, or vice versa. Since our existing furnace was a boiler, not a furnace, and was slumbering in the drive under a blanket of snow, this wasn’t possible, or necessary. But if you’re interested in how it’s normally done, here it is done by a normal person with a much more piquant twang in his voice than I possess:

We haunted the aisles at the local hardware store for the stove pipe and other amenities. Burning wood for heat isn’t unusual around here, thank Jeebus, so they had most everything we needed. The furnace was a floor model, and had been pawed over more than a taxi-dancer after a shore leave. Everything was wrong or broken, but honestly, even the most determined Orange Place imbecile can’t really hurt a quarter-ton lump of cast iron and welded high-temp steel. I had some head-scratching moments trying to wire the beast, what with instructions being scarce, but the only really “busted beyond repair” things were the refractory bricks that line the furnace. But once again, the local hardware store came through, because busted refractory bricks are generally the only kind anyone has around here. They had a pile of ’em, and they were cheap.

Now there was only one problem. We needed to buy firewood in March in Maine. It would have been a lot easier to get the witch’s broomstick.

[To be continued]

It’s Only a Matter of Going

If you’re just tuning in, we’re recounting our BTU journey through the years. We started with bankruptcy and electric baseboard heat, which is more or less the same thing. Now we’re moving on to burning firewood, and anything else made of anything combustible that will fit through a one-foot square furnace door. We’ve purchased a semi-broken floor model of a big ol’ wood burning furnace, and a freight company has dutifully plopped it on a sheet of ice in my dooryard.

I called my family over to the window to look at it. “There it is, boys and girls. Real heat is over there. It’s only a matter of going.”

It was late winter already. The snow comes and goes, receding like a tide. It tricks you into thinking it’s leaving for good, and then you wake up and it’s back with its family in tow. Sometimes you’d get a foot of a dusting.

Other times you’d get eighteen inches of partly cloudy.

That hump you see at the end of the driveway was the real problem. That’s the end of the driveway that leads down to the back of the house, and that’s where the furnace has to go. We abandon that driveway pretty early in the season, and use it as a place to throw all the snow. It’s usually five or six feet deep, and harder than Chinese arithmetic after a subzero week or two.

The furnace would have to go up and over, until we reached this door about halfway down the driveway:

We built a ramp out of planks that stretched from the door to the edge of the driveway before the snows came.

So my family looked out the window, and didn’t like what they saw. It turned into another in a long line of Howyagonnadothatdad, and they turned away from the window and went back to shivering in peace. How, you ask? With a winch and a strap and a 2″ x 6″ board.  That’s all it takes, come on guys, it’s just a matter of going!

So we went to Harbor Fraught, and bought a tow strap:

…and a winch:

…and if you need a picture of a 2×6, I think you’re at the wrong blog. Anyway, the kids didn’t really warm up to the idea yet, because even though we had some experience moving heavy stuff around, we never did it on ice skates before. They thought the ice would make it worse, but they didn’t realize it would make it easier.

So we cut the 2×6 in half. Then we went out in the cold, and used a 2×4 as a lever and a milk crate as a fulcrum, and lifted up one side of the pallet off the ground. We screwed one of the 2×6 boards flat on the bottom of the pallet, and the kid got the picture immediately. We were making a sled. We lifted up the other side and finished the job. The two of us pushed the furnace across the ice over to the end of the driveway pretty easily.

Now comes the part where you have to understand that everything is backwards. You don’t want a tow strap to pull the pallet anywhere. You want a tow strap to keep the pallet from sliding down the hill and eventually into the river. Gravity and a lack of friction will do the work for us if we let it. We had plenty of heavy work to do, though, to flatten the mound at the end of the driveway. We threw the snow further down the driveway to sort of even it out, until we could push the pallet on top of the snow from its spot in the dooryard. Then we got a very nervous Mrs. Cottage, and put her behind the wheel of the van, backed it out into the street, and hooked the tow strap to the pallet on one end and the tow hook under the bumper on the van.

We left a little slack in the strap. My son and I gave the beast a shove, and it started down the steep incline without much fuss. The strap tightened up, and we waved our petite heroine gently forward to slowly ski the pallet down the driveway to the foot of the ramp. We didn’t even break a sweat, which was a shame because it was plenty cold out there.

And now, ladies and germs, I’d sprung my trap. My son had seen that quarter of a ton slide right down where we wanted it, easy peasy, and could be easily gulled into thinking getting it up the ramp into the house would be just as easy. I let him think that, because Satan calls me for advice when he really needs to get stuff done.

I had bolted that cheap hand-cranked winch to the floor in the basement workshop, and I pulled the cable with the hook down to the pallet. I hooked it on, and said, “One of us has to turn the crank, and the other has to walk behind the pallet and push it and steer it. He jumped at the chance at the crank, which was great. I wanted him to choose that option, and didn’t want to force him to do it. You see, a winch works by increasing the weight you can move by gearing your motions down. You turn that crank a lot, and the weight moves a little. He learned that in short order. The boy did his best, and had to, because the crank handle needed more laps around the circuit than the Indianapolis 500. He slept pretty good that night, if I remember correctly.

I never told him that I wanted the job pushing it up the ramp and steering because if the cable snapped (the cable made by the low bidder in a Chinese sweatshop),the man behind the pallet would be killed, and I like him better than I like me.

[To be continued]

Only One Problem

OK, so we decided to burn firewood to keep the ice inside the refrigerator where it belongs. That was a good idea. Waiting until the winter to decide was a bad idea.

You see, people in Maine understand that there are seasons, and the time to prepare for any given season is the season before. Of course, that only applies to merchandise on the end carrels at Walmart. You know, pool noodles in the winter, parkas in the summer. People around here start preparing for next winter about a month before the current winter has ended. They know what’s coming, and they’re ready for it. I didn’t, and I wasn’t.

Now, if you’re from away, you might have a mental picture of burning firewood. There’s a cozy scene of a family in woolen clothes sitting on rocking chairs next to a wood stove, with the dog slumbering at their feet. Believe you me, a little wood stove like that wasn’t going to cut it. Those heating calculations I posted yesterday require me to make about 30,000 BTUs per hour in the house just to stay even. I probably needed twice that to actually heat the place. A tiny cast iron box with a stove pipe full of soot and creosote wouldn’t put a dent it. We went looking for a wood furnace.

We wondered how the locals did it, so we looked around. Some of our neighbors had what looked like a porta-john, or maybe Darth Vader’s public phone booth, out in their yards. These turned out to be outdoor wood furnaces. Like this one:

There’s a reason they’re out in the yard, and not in the basement. They’re like nuclear reactors without the uranium. That’s a little one, and it makes close to 70,000 BTUs per hour. The big ones put out 400,000 BTUs. Your house would glow like the Chevy Malibu in Repo Man if you put that beast indoors.

I’m not the hardy sort, although I fake it pretty good, so the idea of going outside to stoke the furnace didn’t really appeal to me. And the price tag, about half the cost of our house, didn’t appeal to me either.

But we persevered, and wandered the earth online and in person, and finally found one of these:

It’s an Englander 28-3500. It burns wood. Lots of wood. Tons of wood. It’s about as elegant as a Mexican submarine. And even though it’s fairly big, you can put it in your basement and not pyrolize the walls. You open the top door to put in the firewood. You open the bottom door to slide out a tray full of ashes from time to time. There’s a squirrel cage fan hanging off the back, which circulates air in the passageways between the inner firebox and the outer sheet metal case, and then blows it out of the 8″ silver duct stub you see on top there. There’s a steel pipe sticking up a little in the back. That’s where you put the stove pipe and run it into your chimney. There’s a little lever you move left to right to let more or less air into the firebox. There’s a spinning wheel on the ash dump to let more air under the fire, if you really want to get the thing hot, and burn up your eight cords in eight weeks. It has a barbaric temperature switch in the back. It’s a spring that expands as it gets hot, and closes a circuit to start the fan when the air inside the jacket reaches around 90 degrees.

Here’s a guy using one to make a tiny fire of some sort. He should burn the mandolin he’s playing, although a full-sized guitar burns longer, in my experience:

The stove was touted as capable of heating 3,000 square feet of house. I don’t know about you, but I’ve noticed that some houses, say, in San Diego, require less heat than houses, let’s say, in Minneapolis. So that figure might be of doubtful utility to me. I did some rough calcs on how much wood I could ram in the thing, and how long it would last, and how many BTUs were in that weight of wood, and figured that if I soaked the wood in gasoline before I started, I might get 60,000 BTUs out of the beast and heat 2/3 of the 3000 square feet they claim. But it’s important to understand input heat and output heat. If your furnace is 90% efficient, and rated for 50,000 BTUs, it really only delivers 45,000 usable BTUs. Burning firewood is much less efficient than other fuels like oil, so I figured a 50-percent haircut. I’ll take 30,000+ BTUs of heat. That’s the equivalent of almost 10,000 watts of electricity per hour. At the time, that was close to saving $2 per hour instead of running that much baseboard electric heat. It would only take us about 3 or 4 weeks to pay for the stove itself like that.

We found a floor model of this thing in the back of the Orange Place, with most of the parts thrown inside, shrink-wrapped on a pallet. It was getting to be late winter, and they needed room for the pool noodles, I guess, so we got it for a massive discount. I figured I could fix whatever was busted on it.

There was only one problem. It weighs 570 pounds.

[To be continued. Thanks for reading and commenting and hitting the tip jar. It is much appreciated]

A Little Regler BTU Math

I apologize in advance. We’re going to do math.

Relax. We aren’t going to be doing that fancy math. The devil got up on his first day of work and went into his infernal office and put letters into equations that only had numbers in them a minute before. We’re upright folks here in Maine and will have none of that. Fancy math just leads to guys with MBAs telling you to come in on Sunday to make their numbers come out right. For what we’re trying to find out, regler arithmetic will do. And I already work on Sunday, thank you very much.

The question at hand is this: what’s the cheapest form of heat we can buy? No fooling, it’s got to be cheap, coming and going. By that, I mean it has to be cheap to buy the equipment to run it, and it has to likewise be cheap to make BTUs with that cheap equipment.

I turned to the unlikely source you could name. I asked the government. Now I understand that the government is what the devil made on his second day at work, and he’s been working at it non-stop ever since. But in Maine, the government is occasionally a time-warp, and it functions like Eisenhower was still in office. Or maybe Coolidge, on a really good day.

The Maine state government has one of those old-skool bulletproof websites that’s filled with nothing but information. They thought about putting an image or two on it, but their Brownie camera was on the fritz, I guess. So I asked the state gov, “What’s the cheapest form of heat I can buy around here?” Here’s the answer, up to date to today:

Aw, man, that requires too much math for me anyway. I know for certain how many unfortunate romantic liaisons there are in a gallon of gin, but how many BTUs are in a gallon of kerosene or propane or bunker fuel will remain a dark and bloody mystery to me forevermore. And they all taste even worse than gin. Besides, even ill-informed me knows that the furnaces I’d need to burn any of that stuff cost too much money to be practical. I need better answers. Hey look, the government came through again:

 

I know a million anything sounds like a lot, but we need many millions of BTUs to live where we do. This chart is getting things done for me. Of course the prices were different back when I really needed this chart. A chicken egg didn’t cost four bucks back then. You could buy a house for twenty-five grand after the great recession did its work, and I did so. But the ratios were about the same.

So feast your eyes on “Electricity – Baseboard,” and compare it to whatever fuel you’re using. I was heating my house, sorta, using that method, and the only decision I had to make was to run electricity through the baseboard heaters and pay the power company in gold bullion, or to pile up ten dollar bills in the middle of the living room and burn them to keep warm. The cost was about the same.

We could rule out natural gas right away. We ain’t got none here. There aren’t enough people to make it worthwhile to run it out into the boonies, and even if you wanted to, the ground is so full of granite that you’d need Oppenheimer to get back to work to blast the way in for the pipe.

But hey, look at that firewood number. On a good day, it’s as cheap as natural gas. It’s about 20-percent of the cost of electricity. And believe you me, we got trees in Maine. And I could use an 80-percent discount. Only shoplifting and highway robbery pays better than that. And highway robbery in January in Maine is a tough gig, man.

Now this is where internet wags are going to weigh in and tell the world, from their apartment in Tallahassee, that a real man don’t buy firewood. Nosirreebob. You go out and chop down trees like Paul Bunyan and kill something on the way home for the pot. Listen to me folks: No you don’t. You buy firewood. Why? Because you need a big woodlot to cut your own firewood, and you don’t have one. Firewood sellers do.

Let’s do the math. How many cords of wood do we need? That’s easy.

Heating Load=House Area×Heat Loss Factor×Temperature Differential

So my equation goes: Heating Load=Ginormous Victorian dustcatcher x heat running out of every seam in the joint x Oh my god I have to make it 90 degrees hotter in here in February and still wear a sweater.

So I need about 8 cords of firewood. There’s something like 22 million BTUs in a cord of hardwood firewood, so we’d end up with 176, 000,000 BTUs languidly making their way out of my house over a heating season. Eight cords is a lot of wood.

A cord of wood is a stack 8′ long by 4′ high by 4′ deep. It’s 128 cubic feet. The firewood “junks” as we call a piece of firewood around here, are usually 16″ long. I’m not going to stack anything 4′ deep, because that’s not how you dry firewood. One junk deep is it. So I’ll need a pile 24′ long by 4′ high. Actually, I’ll need 8 of them. I certainly don’t want a single pile 4′ high, 192′ long, because I’ll start in my back yard and end up in the street our front, and the plow driver hates that.

So maybe you’re starting to see the problem with you can get your firewood for free if you’ll just cut it. Just stacking that pile is plenty of work, believe you me. We’re doing some math again, and not talking about how firewood warms you twice and similar shite from armchair Daniel Boones. It would take about 24 full-size trees to make 8 cords. A woodlot can produce 20 to 40 cords per acre, but that’s only if you treat it like Sherman treated Georgia. If you want wood every year, you can only cut down 1 or 2 cords a year per acre. I don’t own an 8-acre woodlot.

But what if I did? If I cut down 24 trees, and skidded them out of the mire, and cut them up (by the way, you don’t chop firewood. Ever. You cut it or saw it or split it or stack it. You don’t chop, unless you’re nuts), then split them and trucked them back to the house. You only needed about $100,000- worth of trucks and chainsaws and mauls and kevlar pants and earplugs and whiskey for your frostbite. If you were a pro, it would take you about 60 hours to do all that, working all the time. Then again, if you’re a pro, you’re selling firewood for $350 a cord to people like me, and you’ve got oil heat at your house.

[To be continued]

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