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sippicancottage

A Man Who Has Nothing In Particular To Recommend Him Discusses All Sorts of Subjects at Random as Though He Knew Everything

Small World

I’m getting used to living in a city again. I’ve lived in Boston for a few years. Los Angeles. But for the most part, I’ve always gravitated to the exurban life. Occasionally the suburbs would swallow the exurbs I was in, but I’d generally moved on by then. Not always because the police told me to.

Mérida, Yucatan, where I am now, is big. Depending on how you count its metropolitan area, it’s got either just under a million souls, or 1.3 million. That’s about the same population of the entire state of Maine. Not many people here have even heard of Maine, when they ask me where we fled from. We usually give up after a few tries and say, “Boston,” and that satisfies them, if not me.

This city is like Los Angeles used to be, though. Not much of it is over a two stories tall. It’s spread out all over, but the houses are packed cheek to jowl. You can wander a long way without encountering any gap between buildings. The zoning is by sixteen-sided dice, I think. Everything is everywhere. You can encounter all kinds of things just by wandering around aimlessly. All kinds of people, too, if you’re open to it.

Yesterday evening, we went out to eat with some friends. After we lightened the larder at a sitdown restaurant, we walked down the Corredor Gastronomico, the long strip of restaurants, nightspots, and general folderol this city offers to the sunburned and the thirsty, i.e., us. We pounded dinner home with some frosty helado, sat outside, and watched the parade of people passing by. It’s in the mid-seventies at night, so we decided to just keep wandering around, in search of a nightcap or something.

We got to the head of the remate, the butt end of the big north-south boulevard called the Paseo Montejo. We’ve been there plenty of times before. We were going to pass on by, when we heard the clear, clarion call of a trumpet. Music spills out into the street from lots of doorways, but you can always tell when music isn’t recorded. And a trumpet carries further than other instruments. We shrugged and said, “What the hell,” and went to find our Mérida Joshua.

There was an unusual combo playing at the Tropico 56, an indoor/outdoor place we’ve been to plenty. There was the trumpet we heard first, joined by a keyboard, a pretty girl singer, and a percussionist. We sat down and decided to put ourselves outside some beers, and hang a while.

They were really good, and favored exactly the stuff we’d always like to hear, but never do. One Note Samba. Spooky, by the Classics IV, or the Atlanta Rhythm Section, depending on how old you are, or they were, at the time. We especially liked Perhaps, Perhaps, Perhaps:

We’ve always loved the Perez Prado version, but you can hear everyone from Doris Day to Cake performing that one.

So it was an eclectic, very cool jazz and pop combo, with an equally eclectic mix of music. When they took a break, the trumpet player walked by, and we asked him if he spoke English. He answered in American TV weatherman diction, which made us laugh. We asked him the name of the band. He said he didn’t know, but he’d ask, which also struck us funny.

Music is like that sometimes. Combos, especially jazz combos, are often put together on the fly. Guys that can really play can simply be plugged in at the last minute and still do the job. My brother is like that. I never was. I noticed the trumpet player reading a chart over the keyboard player’s shoulder. That’s a tell. He might not have ever played some of the tunes before, but as long as he could see the chart, no one in the audience would notice. His name was David Terran.

We got to chatting, because he used to live in Los Angeles, and my brother owns a music store in West LA that’s popular with jazz musicians, among others. Then he casually mentioned I might know who his father was. I did, and I bet you do too, even though you don’t know you do. I’m pretty sure this is him, playing the trumpet:

His dad was Tony Terran, a member of The Wrecking Crew, a loose assortment of regular recording sidemen that I’ve written about before. They played on so many hit records that if I listed them, the internet would run out of pixels. Tony played with everyone from Sinatra to Jay Z. You can check out a partial listing of his film work, television credits, and various kinds of music here.

Here he is making a featured appearance on I Love Lucy:

Tony passed away several years back, full of years and accolades. I’m sure he would have enjoyed hearing his son play outside the Tropico. I know we did.

6 Responses

  1. Hola Sippican – It’s easy to see the many reasons you are happy with the decision to make the move to Merida. Bully for you. Amongst them, it seems is proximity to a wide array of music and venues. Made me wonder about your boys – their careers – and if the move would give them an excuse at some point to try the Mexican version of Unorganized Hancock.

    1. Hiya Harry- The kids are happy in Maine. They’re both still doing music, but have far different tastes as far as that goes. As Unorganized Hancock from ten years back, they would have been bigger than Elvis down here.

  2. Small world, indeed. What are the odds of meeting a stranger and finding out you had heard of his father? Several of your postings indicate that Merida has a pretty good live music scene. The Live Music Capital of Mexico? Would you believe the Live Music Capital of Yucatan?

    I wonder if there is any of the Norteño Polka/Oompah/Accordion (Import from Texas) stuff in Merida.

    Speaking of music, Dan Del Santo was an Austin musician. He had a radio show in addition to his musician gigs. He got busted for drugs, and fled to Mexico. Died there. I read somewhere that he could have returned to the US, as charges were dropped, but I could be wrong. Everglades of Kingston Trio? (all that running and hiding didn’t make much sense, as the jury ruled it was self defense)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHWZSp9spDY Here’s a doc on Dan Del Santo.

    1. Hiya Gringo- How you be?

      I’d certainly call Merida the live music capital of Yucatan, because there’s nowhere else here, really. There is superb music of all kinds on offer all over the place, every night, almost always for free. Norteno included. They like this form of Mexican torch song here that I can’t describe any other way. It’s current pop, but there are squeeze boxes and baritone horns and whatnot banging away in the background.

      I’d never heard of Dan Del Santo, but I find his story interesting. Fled to Mexico, and never came back. Huh.

  3. There is superb music of all kinds on offer all over the place, every night, almost always for free.

    Which means musicians without money. Which is the way it has always been. Two examples follow. A musician who had played for big bands in the 40s got off the road and became a music teacher. Even the paltry pay of a schoolteacher beats that of a musician on the road, he decided. He was a SUPERB teacher, not only in teaching Band but also in Music History. Not many high school music teachers are listed in Feather’s Encyclopedia of Jazz Musicians. He could do and he could teach. After several decades of teaching he became a full time musician again. Guess his kids had graduated from college by then.

    A guy followed his childhood ambition of playing in bands. Didn’t make much money, but bought a house with what he inherited from his parents. Didn’t spend much money on house insurance, which hurt when a natural disaster destroyed his home. To pay for a new house, he embarked on a new career—drug abuse counselor for musicians.

    1. Hi Gringo- Of course you’re right, in an American context anyway. I was a working musician back in the day, and watched it disappear over the course of a few years. My brother is miles better than I ever was, and he owns a music store, and teaches, to make most of his money.

      But I’m through the looking glass here in Merida. The musicians that perform for free in the various parks around town are all superb, and they’re paid by the city. It’s free for citizens, but they’re not doing it pro bono. The bars and restaurants pay high-quality bands to appear, and don’t charge cover. I’m not sure if it’s 1961 or 1981 here, but it ain’t 2026.

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